Many cosmetic products for skin and hair contain and rely on PROPYLENE GLYCOL for the purposes of deep penetration because of its low molecular weight and its property to bind moisture to itself, thus supposedly holding moisture deeper into the skin's surface...giving the skin a superficial look and feel of increased moisture.

HOWEVER, PROPYLENE GLYCOL is used in industry in anti-freeze to protect the metal radiator as it repels moisture by binding moisture to itself. [See www.amsoil.com] Because it penetrates the skin so quickly, the EPA and MATERIAL SAFETY DATA ANALYSIS SHEETS (MSDS) warns against excessive skin contact and indicates propylene glycol may cause liver and kidney problems. [See www.healthy-communications.com and search for "propylene glycol"] This warning is supported by medical reports.[www.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed] In too many cosmetics, typical formulations may contain 10-20% propylene glycol. Other documented ethical concerns, include contact dermatitis, irritation, abnormal skin function and dehydration.

TOCOPHEROL (VITAMIN E) ACETATE, an inexpensive, ester form of tocopherol/Vitamin E, is included in most of the leave-on moisturizers and other cosmetics claiming to contain Vitamin E. Vitamin E as an antioxidant is effective whether in the less expensive ester forms, tocopherol acetate and tocopherol succinate or the more expensive pure d-alpha tocopherol. HOWEVER, there are medical studies indicating that under some conditions, tocopherol acetate enhances, skin cancer development whereas the free un-esterfied form, d-alpha tocopherol, significantly reduces experimental UVB carcinogenesis. Because the purer form, d-alpha tocopherol is so expensive and cost prohibitive, it is rarely used as the source of Vitamin E. This would not be such a concern if the product containing the less expensive ester forms of Vitamin E were not in leave-on products which are applied to the skin during daily exposure to the sun. [Nutrition & Cancer - "Disposition and metabolism of topically administered alph-tocopherol acetate: a common ingredient of commercially available sunscreens and cosmetics", 26(2):193-201, 1996]

ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS are effective in the exfoliation of skin and under professional medical supervision may reveal a fresher-looking layer of skin. HOWEVER, most products available to the consumer for home use, especially the leave-on products, if effective, causes the skin to have increased sensitivity to sun and more susceptible to damage. Thus, the FDA's required warning for users of AHA products to avoid the sun and use effective sunscreen. Products touting high percentage concentrations (e.g. "10%") may be trying to impress the buyer with the high percentage, BUT such products are either too strong [Some European countries ban products containing more than 5% AHA.] or pH adjusted, which renders the product potentially harmful or marginally effective. In medical research it is indicated that the most effective use of AHA's is at a specific pH and a specific percentage. In the case of AHA's, more is not better.

SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE (SLS) and SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLES) are found in almost all commercially available shampoos and liquid body washes. HOWEVER, it has become increasingly known to be perhaps one of the most harmful ingredients in personal care. It is often used in laboratory testing as a skin irritant standard to test the healing properties of other ingredients. Because it is very inexpensive, thickens with an inexpensive form of salt and produces high levels of foam, it is widely used in shampoos and liquid body washes at concentration levels of around 40-50%. At such high levels, this detergent ingredient strips the hair and skin of essential lipids leading the average consumer to purchase conditioners and moisturizers.

A Few Other Ingredients Highlighted:

MINERAL OIL, PETROLEUM AND PETROLATUM are effective lubricant barriers to protect skin after laser surgery or harsh and dry air. HOWEVER, when used daily over long periods of time, the skin may be suffocated and impaired resulting in unhealthy skin that is dry without the use of these ingredients.

GLYCERIN is promoted as being a beneficial humectant. HOWEVER, because of its ability to absorb moisture, it may draw water away from skin resulting in drier skin.

COLLAGEN is promoted as a moisturizer and is some products, touted as a penetrating ingredient that supports skin's collagen network. HOWEVER, the molecular weight of collagen is such that the collagen molecule so large that it cannot penetrate skin and at best is a film former providing a mere aesthetic coating on the skin when topically applied.

WHEAT PROTEINS are classified as conditioning agents. HOWEVER, the wheat proteins used in cosmetic products are at best a film formers as they cannot penetrate skin or hair. And in many cases, products contain wheat protein combined with acids, but most ACIDS denature wheat proteins, thus the breakdown renders the protein useless.

DIAZOLIDINYL UREA is used as a cosmetic preservative and has antiseptic properties. HOWEVER, it may release formaldehyde.